The DMZ: More fun than a barrel of monkeys
Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008The Demilitarized Zone.
No really, it’s actually quite scary. But I had a lot of fun. But then again I like history.
The Demilitarized Zone located in South Korea is not the only non-combat zone in the world. In fact, it is one of ten currently standing neutral or no-conflict zones. The largest zone is most definitely the one in Antarctica - the entire continent is deemed a no-combat zone by forty-six consenting countries! However, the Korean DMZ is likely the most famous and certainly the most heavily guarded DMZ in the world. Plus it inspires movies like nobody’s business.
One might think with an area that is designated a no-combat zone that that it would be fairly safe, right? Actually, here’s a list of serious incidents from 1967-2001 that occurred on, around, or due to the DMZ. It’s a spicy little area, isn’t it? Not bad for a zone in its fifties.
It’s also a hugely popular tourist attraction. But when you look at it, it’s quite possibly the worst possible choice for a tourist attraction. It’s not a building. It’s not a historical ruin. It’s not a river. No, it’s 387.5 square miles of sophisticated military operation and fierce cultural tension.
Perhaps it is the almost taboo nature of it that attracts so many people worldwide? Let alone the zone has provided a backdrop for badboys worldwide to sneak personal snapshots of forbidden things such as hidden tunnels, guard posts, and unnecessarily tall flag poles.
The DMZ is probably among the top four most recognizable facts about Korea in general; standing proudly next to the 1988 Seoul Olympics, 2002 World Cup, and the ridiculously cute 윤은혜.
However, the purpose of the zone is clear - don’t mess with us and we won’t mess with you. I seem to remember having a similar timeout once for fighting with my brother. However, it isn’t the purpose of the zone that gives me pause - it’s the close vicinity to downtown Seoul that makes me wish I was into Swedish culture instead of Korean.
About thirty miles (48 km) south of the DMZ lies roughly 11 million people. A boatload of people in Seoul are not all the far away from the most heavily guarded place in Asia. Kind of scary, right? Maybe that’s why Korea has appeal - danger appeal - like enough appeal to want to date him, but not take him home to mom - unless you just want to make your mom mad. Yeah, that’s my Korea.
So in conclusion, I’m terrified of the DMZ. I treat it with respect. I know that South Korea’s military is not one to mess with, so I’m not worried for anyone’s safety, per se, but I am a little worried at the fact that something like the DMZ even exists in the first place. Perhaps one day it will be torn down. I wonder then what will Korea do with itself if not always looking over its shoulder?
For a more candid, distinctly American viewpoint on the DMZ, I recommend checking out this nicely written first-hand experience. What are your tourist experiences?
Thoughts?
Posted by Matthew in How Koreans Do It |
December 3rd, 2008 at 5:12 am
I’ve once visited Panmunjom and the thing that impressed me most were the “beware of mines” signs next to the road.
December 3rd, 2008 at 7:06 am
Three things I saw in the DMZ that stuck with me:
1) There was a small amusement park. Nobody there at the time.
2) The guides and tourist pamphlets try to play up the danger and tension of the DMZ (No jeans! No waving! No smiles!), but generally the places to which they take the tourists are pretty safe, well guarded, and there aren’t too many opportunities to start a war with the grim-faced North Korean guards. Then again, I didn’t get to go to Panmunjeom (a defector had recently come through, and everyone was on high alert), where apparently those rules are more stricly enforced…
3) Dorasan station is billed as “not the last station in the South, but the first station into the North.” It looked just like a regular train/subway station (right up to the signage and electronic signs on the platform), but let’s just say you would wait a long time to catch the next train into the North.
And yes, like Matthew, I am very concerned that Seoul is so close to the DMZ. Like he said, Korea’s military is not one to mess with, and I know they have detailed plans should the North try a full-scale invasion, but still, I worry…
December 3rd, 2008 at 10:45 am
what I find interesting about the DMZ and the North Korean “Threat”… no one in South Korea actually finds it so terrifying. Just like you mentioned, Seoul is right beneath the DMZ, and has thousands of missiles pointed at it, but everyone is just kind of blase about the whole deal. Where as everyone outside of Korea makes a huge deal out of the smallest incidents.
Bruce Cummings wrote in his book about North Korea, that there’s a ripple effect. People closest to North Korea get a small ripple, whereas people outside of the epicenter get the biggest ripple.
I’ve never been there, but I’m sure it would be a great place to have a battle…
(one of my fav videos)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8lRaYNk61Y
December 3rd, 2008 at 11:37 am
While I haven’t read any of his other books as of yet, I am making progress in Cummings’ “Korea’s Place in the Sun: A Modern History” (Norton, 1997). A bit more in depth - definitely recommended history reading material after Michael Breen’s “The Koreans: Who They Are, What They Want, Where Their Future Lies” (St. Martin’s Griffin 2004) which is nice, concise, and covers just about any topic related to Korea’s past, present, and future.
Sorry, history nerd tangent.
I did notice the blase attitude that you mention Keith and I suppose it’s no different than what we as Americans face daily in terms of crime. America has a higher crime rate than Korea yet I don’t always watch over my shoulder or worry about getting shot…although I’m not in my hometown right now. If I were, I’d be sweating
Take note: always pack heat if you go through Killeen, TX for any reason ㅋㅋㅋ
In all seriousness, there’s a much higher chance of crime occurring in the states yet I hardly ever think about it. I suppose one gets accustomed to whatever the daily routine is - be it armed robbery or insanely well-guarded DMZs.
Ripple effect, right?
December 8th, 2008 at 10:49 am
I like History to but mine was from 6 July 1950 to August 20 1951.Do the younger Korean know or do they care what the older people went though to make South Korea what it is today.They paid a terrible price for the freedom that the young enjoy today.I remember a mother with they worldy possession on her head with a baby on her back with a little boy and girl trotting to keep up with her and I wonder what was in store for them.I remember that mother that was shot in the head and the little baby in her arms with its little head bash in all because the father own a little parcle of land and the look on his face as we help him recover his family.I remember Taejon where some 7,000 paid the price for the freedom that the people of Korea enjoy to day.That is the civilian and the solider that died for Korea Remember Freedom is not Free. sign 40 Yards